Three seam split crotch pants and FREE pattern

Split crotch pants are a popular choice for babies and toddlers when practicing EC (elimination communication). When the baby is held in a squat or an older child sits on a potty the pants split at the crotch to allow for elimination without having to pull the pants up and down.

Here are instructions to make a pair of split crotch pants by sewing only three seams. Hopefully these instructions are simple enough so that anyone can be successful!

New multi-sized pattern. Some download times are long.

By choosing a fabric that doesn't fray (come apart in the wash) you can get away with not hemming the split area and the bottom of the leg. Good fabrics to choose are fleece or some wool fabrics (flannel for example). These fabrics don't fray, will repel the pee (not absorb it) and can be repeatedly hung to dry until they are soiled or become smelly at which time they can be easily washed. You will also need at least 22" of 1/4" or 1/2" elastic for the waist band. I used a sewing machine to sew my pants but you could absolutely do it by hand by using a straight stitch. All seams have a 1/4" seam allowance.
Fold your fabric in half and line the pattern up along the fold so that you are actually cutting two of the pattern with one of the edges attached. These pants do not have a front and back so you don't have to worry about which is which when putting them on.

SEAM #1 and SEAM #2: Sew along the inner leg seams, use a 1/4" seam allowance.
Lay the pants so that the two pieces are facing each other. Open up the leg pieces as shown.

Hint: You can see that I serged the edge of the crotch area. I did this to make reinforce the fabric. It is not necessary but if you want to do this with an ordinary machine you can use a zig zag stitch.
Keeping the bottom layer of the right leg on the table, lay the bottom layer of the left leg on top.
Lay the top layer of the right leg on top of the bottom layer of the left leg.
Lay the top layer of the left leg on top of the top layer of the right leg.

If this sounds confusing, its actually not. Basically you are just alternating sides. It doesn't actually matter if you start with the right or left as long as they alternate.
SEAM #3: With the leg pieces overlapped, roll the waist down 1/4" and then roll that down another 3/4" so that you don't see the raw edge. I overlapped the flaps (horizontally) so that the total circumference of the waist was 20". My son's waist is 17" so the extra 3" leaves room for the stretch of the elastic. Start this in the split area of the waist and pin once you have rolled. Then pin the sides as well. When you sew remember to leave an opening to fit the elastic in.
Using a large safety pin, thread the elastic through the elastic casing. Remember to hold onto the end or you will lose it into the casing as you push the pin around!

Try the pants on your baby so that you know exactly how tight to make the elastic. I usually cut a length of elastic the exact length of my son's waist and then overlap 1 1/4" when sewing the ends of the elastic together.

You can sew the two ends of the elastic together or simply pin them using a small safety pin and tuck it back into the casing. This will allow you to adjust it later as you child grows. You can sew the gap in the waist seam closed if you wish or leave it open for future elastic adjustments.
Here are the completed pants.

If you choose to finish the leg hems, just fold up the hem by 1/4" and then again by 1/4" so that the raw edge is hidden, pin and sew around.
Here are the completed pants with the legs hemmed. It gives a more finished look but its not necessary if your fabric does not fray.

You can also partially sew down the overlap seam so that the pants only open when you hold your baby in the classic position. This makes the pants more discrete and warmer for the winter months. I only sewed down 2" (measured from the waist seam) because if you sew down too far the pants don't split enough, especially in the rear.